Page 45 - HAND EMBROIDERY ARTISAN_TT

Adding embellishments: Once the embroidery is In Sozni embroidery, the levelling line of design refers
complete, additional embellishments can be added. to the guideline or base line that helps artisans maintain
These could be sequins, beads, mirrors, etc. This is also symmetry, alignment, and uniformity in the embroidered
a time-consuming task as each piece is carefully added patterns especially crucial in traditional designs like
over the embroidery with a knot to hold it firmly in place. borders (pallas), jalis, or central motifs.
This step also requires a skilled artisan to be done with Purpose of the levelling line
precision and speed.
1 Alignment: Ensures that all motifs are placed at the
Finishing the saree: The final step is to finish the saree. same height or follow the same curve.
This involves trimming any loose threads and adding a
nice border to give it a lasting firmness. Saree is then 2 Symmetry: Helps in maintaining balanced design on
dry cleaned and steam ironed creating the final beautiful both sides of the shawl or stole.
product you receive. 3 Proportion: Assists in scaling the design correctly

Packing the saree: This step is important to preserve over large areas.
the saree carefully. Each saree is carefully packed inside 4 Precision in dual-sided work: In reversible Sozni
a cloth bag (created from the leftover fabrics in the embroidery, both sides must match exactly levelling
production house, a step towards zero waste production) lines ensure accuracy.
which is then packed inside the Box and shipped to
costumer. How It’s applied
Kaaj (Fig 1) • A fine chalk line or stencil marking is drawn on the
fabric.
Fig 1
• The artisan may use a ruler or string for straight lines
or curved tools/templates for complex patterns.

• Designs are traced or sketched along these lines
using rehearsal (tankha) technique.
Types of levelling lines

1 Straight line: For borders or central vertical designs.
2 Curved/arc lines: For floral vines, paisleys, or Chinar
patterns.
3 Grid lines: For jali (net-like) designs to keep motifs
in structured formation.
Hemb in sozni embroidery (Fig 3)

Fig 3
The kaaj is simple, easy and beautiful. It is called Blanket
Stitch, as traditionally, it is used to stitch the edges of
shawls. It not only gives the blanket edges a nice look
but also secures them. This stitch is now used in many
other crafting projects, making it one of the most sought-
after stitches.
The kaaj ( Blanket Stitch) is often confused with the
Buttonhole Stitch. Instead, it should be said that Blanket
Stitch and Buttonhole Stitch are often considered the
same. While some extensive research would logically
explain that they are not. While both stitches are used
to secure edges, a Buttonhole Stitch is a sturdier one.

Levelling line of design in sozni (Fig 2)
In Sozni embroidery, the term “hemb” (sometimes spelled
Fig 2 hem or heemb) refers to the outer edge or margin of a
shawl, stole, or fabric piece where the embroidery ends. It
is both a design boundary and a finishing element, playing
an important role in maintaining neatness, alignment, and
symmetry in the overall layout.

Functions of the hemb in sozni embroidery
1 Design boundary: Marks where the embroidery
should start and stop—especially in borders (pallas)
and corner designs.
H & C: Hand Embroidery Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.5.21-26 35